Tuesday 13 December 2011

MAKE A 24X6 LED MATRIX


Make a 24X6 LED matrix














This is a simple project that says how to build a 24x6 led matrix. It is very easy to do this work with low cost and with less period. Because all the components are available for us.  Let’s try for a while…
The steps are given below..





Make a 24X6 LED matrix







Make a 24X6 LED matrix







Step 1Getting All The Right Things

Getting All The Right Things



Getting All The Right Things

So there will need the basic set of tools for this project : a soldering iron, some solder wire, a cutter, a needle nosed plier,some wire, wire striper, and some desoldering tools etc..

For the matrix the listed components are needed:


For the matrix you will:
1. 144 LEDs
2. 24 resistors( The value is determent by the type of LEDs, in my case 91 ohm)
3. 4017 decade counter
4. 6 1KOhm resistors
5. 6 2N3904 transistors
6. A long Perfboard
7. Arduino
8. 3 x 74HC595 shift register
10. some pin headers

Step 2How it works?


How it works?





The tricky behind the display is multiplexing and the idea is the same as withe the 8x10 LED matrix: It is basically a way to split information in to little peaces and send it one by one.
this way you can save a lot of pins on the Arduino and keep your program quite simple.

                        Now this time we have 3 shift registers which multiply the number of outputs and save lots of arduino pins. Each shift register has 8 outputs and you only need 3 arduino pins to control almost an limited numbers of shift registers.
                        We also use the 4017 decade counter to scan the rows, and you can scan up to 10 rows with it because you have only 10 outputs but to control it you need only 2 pins. The 4017 is a very useful chip and it's a good idea to know how to work with it. Like the scanning is done with the 4017, by connecting one row at a time to ground and sending the right data via the shift registers to the columns.


Step 3:

Schematics


Schematics



Schematics

Schematics


Schematics



The only thing didn't specified in the schematics is the value of the current limiting resistors because they change from each type of LEDs, so it will need to calculate them by ourself.

                        First there should get some specs on the LEDs, we should know their forward voltage and forward current, these informations are get from the seller. The circuit operates on 5V so the  Source voltage is 5V.

                        There is a added a PCB layout of the control board. It will be very helpful for us.


Step 4:

Soldering The LEDs


Soldering The LEDs




Soldering 144 LEDs in a matrix formation can be a little tricky. It is very tough to solder by using lots of wire jumpers. So the above showing methods are more creative to do this.
 
                        It is need to bend the positive lead of the LED down towards the other ones and make a column, and snip off the leads that didn't use and try to make the connections as low as we can get, and can be done this to all of the positive leads.

                        Now the negative leads are connected in a column and thats make soldering tricky because the positive rows are in the way, so it will need to make a 90 degrees bend with the negative lead and make a bridge over the positive row to the next negative lead, and so on to the next LEDs. It is very easy to solder the shift registers and all the parts because every one has hes own style and methods.


Step 5:

Programming The Display


Programming The Display


Now the only thing thats left is the program. So far there are two programs for it that do pretty much the same thing. In the program that gets a word or a sentence from the arduino IDE serial monitor and displays it on the matrix, the code is very basic and may be not the best in the world but it does the work, and it is free to write our own code and modify mine as we wish.

In the excel file we can create our own symbols and characters.
The way it works is like so:
First create the symbol that want  pixel by pixel(don't worry it's very easy) and copy the output line like so - #define {OUTPUT LINE}.



Thus the work had done successfully. Now the 24x6 LED is ready to work.


Make a 24X6 LED matrix

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SCROLLING DISPLAY WITH 12 SEGMENT USING 16F628A

SCROLLING DISPLAY WITH 12 SEGMENT USING 16F628A

Hi this is my next good one for you it is very difficult to build a scrolling display with larger number of  segments or simply with more character space but now it is more easy here i am going to show you a beautiful scrolling message display  with 12 segments! ,you can build it without any  confusion because it is verified you have the proof to see the proof please click here





















to download the hex file please click here





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MOVING MESSAGE DISPLAY USING 16F628A






MOVING MESSAGE DISPLAY USING 16F628A


Hi this is my next good one for you here iam going to show a simple scrolling display using pic16f628a with single led  dot matrix , it is a good simple design for your first scrolling display  project

for more information refer the pictures below and use the simulation video .To watch the video please click here

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to download the hex code for the project please click here







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SCROLLING DISPLAY SIMULATION USING PROTEUS



PROTEUS SIMULATION OF MOVING MESSAGE DISPLAY USING 89C52

Hi this is my next good one for you , this is a simplified schematic diagram of  scrolling message display using 89c52 it is very simple in construction and it is cost effective for your scrolling message display circuit to watch the video please click here







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to download the hex code click here


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Sunday 11 December 2011

reference for compact robot






REFERENCE FOR COMPACT ROBOT 


Hi guyzz this is my next good one for you





now you can ask your questions about your project  at any time  , refer this page for your future reference





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Thursday 27 October 2011

PIC12F675 Single RGB LED Controller






Hi this is my next good one for you

PIC12F675 Single RGB LED Controller












to download the source code please click here
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Friday 21 October 2011

PIC Forums





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    Microchip Forum                   http://www.microchip.com/forums/Default.aspx?  

    Electro Tech Online Forum         http://www.electro-tech-online.com/
   
    PIC Webring                       http://hub.webring.org/hub/picmicro

    DIY Christmas                     http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/forum.php


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Electronic component Suppliers






Hi this is my next good one for you



2001                              http://www.2k1.co.uk/

    Component-shop                    http://www.component-shop.co.uk/index.html

    Crownhill Associates              http://www.crownhill.co.uk/

    DIP Micro                         http://www.dipmicro.com/store/

    Farnell                           http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/home/homepage.jsp

    Fast Components                   http://www.fastcomponents.co.uk/

    Futurlec                          http://www.futurlec.com/                          

    FTDI Chip                         http://www.ftdichip.com/

    LED Bulbs                         http://www.led-bulbs.com/

    Paltronics                        http://www.phenoptix.com/

    Phenoptix                         http://www.phenoptix.com/

    Rapid Online                      http://www.rapidonline.com
                   
    Toby Electronics                  http://www.toby.co.uk/

    Warburtech                        http://www.warburtech.com/

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Languages & Simulators





Hi this is my next good one for you



 Oshsonsoft                        http://www.oshonsoft.com/

    JAL                               http://www.voti.nl/jal/index_1.html

    JAL tutorial and libraries        http://www.justanotherlanguage.org/

    PICC Lite                         http://www.htsoft.com/

    PIC Basic                         http://www.protonbasic.co.uk/

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Tools & Data






Hi this is my next good one for you



HD44780 LCD Commands      

            http://www.geocities.com/dinceraydin/lcd/commands.htm
 LED Array calculator (very good site)   http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
 SNAP Scaleable Node Address Protocol    http://www.hth.com/


Useful Microchip Application Notes

 AN587
 Interfacing PICmicro® MCUs to an LCD Module   http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/AppNotes/00587b.pdfhttp:/ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/AppNotes/00587b.pdf

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Datasheets





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http://www.datasheetarchive.com/
http://www.datasheets.org.uk/
http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/
http://www.microchip.com
http://picprojects.org.uk/projects/docs/HD44780.pdf

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PIC Projects & Circuits






Hi this is my next good one for you



http://www.blueroomelectronics.com/
http://www.dattalo.com/
http://www.romanblack.com/
http://www.sixca.com/
http://www.electronicsweekly.com/blogs/gadget-master/
http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/
http://mondo-technology.com/
http://projects.dimension-x.net/
http://www.piclist.com/images/www/hobby_elec/index.htm
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ELECTRONICS GENERAL LINKS





Hi this is my next good one for you




http://www.mdaelektronica.nl/
http://www.circuitsonline.nl/
http://www.vandijkenelektronica.nl/site/index.php4
http://www.klove.nl/
http://www.voti.nl/winkel/index.html
http://electronics-diy.com/index.php
http://haltronics.nl
http://www.de-onlineshop.nl/shop
http://www.radioelco.nl/
http://home.hetnet.nl/~fbakelaar/INDEX.HTML
http://www.baco-army-goods.nl/

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AVR links






Hi this is my next good one for you here you can find a lot of useful links about projects ,tutorials etc about ATMEL AVR



http://www.avrbeginners.net/
http://www.avr-asm-tutorial.net/avr_en/beginner/index.html
http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewforum&f=3
http://avr.15.forumer.com/index.php
http://www.myplace.nu/avr
http://www.serasidis.gr/index.asp
http://www.tietomyrsky.fi/projektit/?lang=EN
http://members.tripod.com/Stelios_Cellar/AVR/AVR%20Info.html
http://cappels.org/dproj/Home.htm
http://www.barello.net/
http://sharon.esrac.ele.tue.nl/mirrors/zl1bpu/micro/index.htm
http://bray.velenje.cx/avr
http://www.dontronics.com/atmel.html
http://www.lancos.com/index.html
http://homepages.tesco.net/~steve.lawther/steve/ucindex.htm
http://www.birch.net/~petek/atmel
http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/ee476/FinalProjects
http://www.mikrocontroller.net/index.en.htm
http://www.ucapps.de/index.html
http://www.riccibitti.com/
http://www.ibrtses.com/embedded/avr.html
http://www.ipass.net/hammill/newavr.htm
http://homepage.hispeed.ch/peterfleury
http://home.arcor.de/burkhard-john/index_e.html
http://users.rcn.com/carlott/avr_projects.html
http://www.mikrocontroller.com/
http://hem.bredband.net/robinstridh
http://www.embedtronics.com/
http://pinguin.sauerland.de/cat5.html
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/6368/avr.html
http://www.avr1.org/pavr/pavr.html
http://www.visi.com/~dwinker/revava
http://members.aol.com/AVRProject/index.html
http://www.dertien.dds.nl/content/avrprojects.html
http://www.serasidis.gr/
http://www.avrprojects.net/
http://heim.ifi.uio.no/~haakoh/avr
http://www.avr.ausis.de/
http://garydion.com/projects/videoverlay
http://www.avrguide.com/
http://home.tiscali.de/mbowyer/scope.html
http://www.ullasmann.eu/
http://thomaspfeifer.net/projekte_mit_atmel_avr.htm
http://avr-asm.tripod.com/
http://www.micro-ide.com/
http://www.thomas-wedemeyer.de/elektronik/AVR/avr.html
http://www.voidpointer.de/avr
http://courses.cit.cornell.edu/ee476/FinalProjects/
http://www.electronics-lab.com/index.html
http://www2.atmel.com/
http://www.avrfreaks.net/
http://www.nerdkits.com/
http://hub.webring.org/hub/avr
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmel_AVR
http://www.mcselec.com/
http://www.datasheetdir.com/
http://heim.ifi.uio.no/haakoh/avr/
http://www.avrprojects.info/
http://www.engineersgarage.com/embedded/avr-microcontroller-projects
http://www.olimex.com/dev/avrprojects.html
http://www.avrbox.com/
http://dicks.home.xs4all.nl/avr/index.html
http://gandalf.arubi.uni-kl.de/avr_projects/
http://extremeelectronics.co.in/avr-projects/avr-project-relay-timer-with-atmega8-avr-mcu/







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Newnes - Programming PIC MCUs with PicBasic








Hi this is my next good one for you


Newnes - Programming PIC MCUs with PicBasic 








To download please click here



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Interfacing PIC Microcontrollers






Hi this is my next good one for you

Interfacing PIC Microcontrollers











to download please click here

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PCB etching tutorial





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How to make PCBs at home


What you need

 Required materials


  Magazines or advertising brochures


   Laser printer 
Alternately, a photocopier should work


    Household clothes iron



   Copper clad laminate


    Etching solution Ferric chloride solution,
about 1 liter/ 0,26 gallons



     Kitchen scrubs



     Thinner (e.g. acetone)


        Plastic coated wire

How it works

Laser printers and photocopiers use plastic toner, not ink, to draw images. Toner is the black powder that ends up on your clothes and desk when replacing the printer cartridge. Being plastics, toner is resistant to etching solutions used for making PCBs - if only you could get it on copper!
Modifying a printer for working with copper is out of question, but you can work around it with the toner-transfer principle. Like most plastics, toner melts with heat, turning in a sticky, glue-like paste. So why not print on paper as usual, place the sheet face-down on PCB copper, and melt toner on copper applying heat and pressure?
Almost right. Right now you got paper toner-glued to PCB copper. Last step is to find a way to remove paper leaving toner on the copper, and you’re done.
I must credit Thomas Gootee for finding a solution putting glossy, inkjet photo paper in his laser printer. He found that the glossy coating dissolves in water. As most of the toner does not penetrate the glossy surface, you can easily remove the paper support with water: the gloss dissolves and you can remove paper.
Clever, isn’t it?

Unfortunately, the kind of paper used by Thomas is being replaced by new, improved, WATERPROOF (!) photo paper. This is good for your photo prints, but doesn't work anymore for PCBs.

While searching for more information on the subject, I found a newsgroup thread that suggested replacing expensive inkjet photo paper with glossy paper recycled from magazines. Magazines use ink, not toner, for printing, so previous printing shouldn’t affect the process. Another great idea! I tried it and worked so well that I decided to spread the word. Read on for a complete tutorial and my hands-on tips.

Finding the right paper

The perfect paper should be: glossy, thin, and cheap. The kind of stuff that looks lustrous and shiny when new, but so cheap it quickly turns into pulp when wet. If you ever found a mailbox full of squashy mail on a rainy day, you already know the answer: paper used for most mail advertising and magazines fits perfectly the requisites. I tried pages from the free advertising magazine IEN,catalogues , travel agent’s brochures, TV programme magazine, and all worked well. I don’t expect great difference using paper from most magazines. As a rule of thumb, if humidity in your bathroom turns your magazine in bad shape, it should be OK. If the humidity on your fingertips is enough to feel a sticky sensation while touching its gloss coating, it should be OK. Feel free to experiment: almost any glossy magazine paper will work. I like thin paper over thick one, and prefer recycled paper over new paper.

Paper preparation

I discard pages heavily printed, preferring pages with normal-size text on white background. Although ink usually does not transfer on the PCB, heavy print of headlines sometimes accumulate so much ink that some gets on copper.
Cut the paper to a size suitable for your printer. Try to get straight, clean cuts, as jagged borders and paper dust are more prone to clog printer mechanism. An office cutter is ideal, but also a blade-cutter and a steady hand work well.
Be careful to remove all staples, bindings, gadget glue or similar stuff, as they can damage printer’s drum and mechanisms.

Printer setup

Laser printers are not designed for handling thin, cheap paper, so we must help them feeding the sheets manually instead of using the paper tray. Selecting a straight paper path minimizes the chances of clogging. This is usually achieved setting the printer as if it were printing on envelopes.

You want to put as much toner on paper as possible, so disable “toner economy modes” and set printer properties to the maximum contrast and blackness possible. You want to print your PCB to exact size, so disable any form of scaling/resizing (e.g. “fit to page”). If your printer driver allows, set it to “center to page” as it helps to get the right position using a non-standard size sheet. 

Printing

Disclaimer: your laser printer is not designed to handle this kind of paper. Feeding your printer with paper other than special laser printer paper could damage it and potentially voids the warranty. So you are warned: do it at your own risk.
Print your PCB layout as usual, except you must setup the printer as described above and you must print a mirrored layout.
This is my PC thermometer circuit printed on IEN magazine paper. Notice that it is a mirror image of the circuit (the word PCTHERM is reversed). Placing some text helps recognizing when the layout is mirrored. Text will read straight again once the image is transferred on copper. If you look it very closely, you can see that toner is not opaque enough to 100% cover the words underneath, but this won’t affect etching.

How to cut raw material

PCB material is fibreglass like, and a trick to cut it effortlessly is to score a groove with a blade cutter or a glass cutter. The groove weakens the board to the point that bending it manually breaks it along the groove line. This method is applicable only when cutting the whole board along a line that goes from side to side, that is you can’t cut a U or L shaped board with it.
For small boards, I lock the PCB material in a vice, aligning vice edge and cut line. I use an all-aluminium vice which is soft and doesn’t scratch copper, if you use a steel vice protect copper surface with soft material.
Using the vice as a guide, I score BOTH board sides with a blade cutter (be careful) or another sharp, hardened tool (e.g. a small screwdriver tip). Ensure to scratch edge-to-edge. Repeat this step 5-6 times on each side.
Bend the board. If groove is deep enough, the board will break before reaching a 30 degrees bend. It will break quite abruptly so be prepared and protect your hands with gloves.
To make paper alignment easier, cut a piece of PCB material that is larger (at least 10mm/0,39 inch for each side) than the final PCB.

Cleaning the board for transfer

It is essential that the copper surface is spotlessly clean and free from grease that could adverse etching. To remove oxide from copper surface, I use the abrasive spongy scrubs sold for kitchen cleaning. It’s cheaper than ultra-fine sandpaper and reusable many times. Metallic wool sold for kitchen cleaning purposes also works. Thoroughly scrub copper surface until really shiny. Rinse and dry with a clean cloth or kitchen paper.
TIP: "...I had a bar of "Solvol" soap in the kitchen cupboard, This stuff is like normal soap but with sand mixed in with it or something. Mechanics and so on often use it as its really good at cleaning the grease and stuff off your hands. It is like soap with built-in sandpaper. Not much effort with some Solvol soap cleaned copper right up..."
Robert Davidson

Preparing for transfer

To make paper alignment easy, cut excess paper around one corner (leave a small margin though). Leave plenty of paper on the other sides to fix the paper to the desk. As the board is larger than the final PCB, there is large margin for easy placement of paper on copper.
Turn the iron to its maximum heat (COTTON position) and turn off steam, if present. While the iron warms up, position the materials on the table. Don’t work on an ironing board as its soft surface makes it difficult to apply pressure and keep the PCB in place. Protect table surface with flat, heat-resistant material (e.g. old magazines) and place the board on top, copper face up. Lock the board in place with double-adhesive tape. Position the PCB printout over the copper surface, toner down, and align paper and board corners. Lock the paper with scotch tape along one side only. This way, you can flip the paper in and out instantly.

Iron it!

Flip out the paper, and preheat copper surface placing the iron on top of it for 30 seconds. Remove the iron, flip back paper into its previous position over the copper. It is essential that paper does not slip from its position. You can also cover with a second sheet of blank paper to distribute pressure more evenly. Keep moving the iron, while pressing down as evenly as you can, for about one minute.
Remove the iron and let the board to cool down.

Peeling


This is the fun part. When the board is cool enough to touch, trim excess paper and immerge in water. Let it soak for 1 minute, or until paper softens.

Cheap paper softens almost immediately, turning into a pulp that is easy to remove rubbing with your thumb. Keep rubbing until all paper dissolves (usually less than 1 minute). Don’t be afraid to scratch toner, if it has transferred correctly it forms a very strong bond with copper.

The board with all paper removed. It is OK if some microscopic paper fibres remain on the toner (but remove any fibre from copper), giving it a silky feeling. It is normal that these fibres turn a little white when dry.

Magnified view of the tracks, these are 1206 pads and SO8 SMT pads, connected by 20 mils tracks. Some white fibres show up on the black toner surface.

The hanger tool

.
The optimal way to etch is keeping the PCB horizontal and face-down (and possibly stirring). This way dissolved copper gets rapidly dispersed in the solution by gravity. Stirring keeps its concentration even, so the solution close to the PCB does not saturate and etching proceeds quicker. Unfortunately it is not easy to keep the PCB in place in an highly corrosive acid. This hanger is my best attempt to solve the problem. I made it with plastic-insulated copper wire. The wire must have a rigid core, but must be also easy enough to adapt to the board by hand without tools. Core diameter of 1 to 2mm is fine. Give it the form of an “arm” (the handle) ending with 4 “fingers”.
Each finger has a ring tip that fits a corner of the board. Close fingers around board corners: now you can use the handle to splash the board into the etching solution, stir, and inspect how etching proceeds.

Etching

There are many alternatives for etching liquids, and you can use the one that suits your taste. I use ferric chloride (the brown stuff): it’s cheap, can be reused many times, and doesn’t require heating. Actually, moderate heating can speed up etching, but I find it reasonably fast also at room temperature (10…15 minutes).
The down side of this stuff is that it’s incredibly messy. It permanently stains everything it gets in contact with: not only clothes or skin (never wear your best clothes when working with it!), but also furniture, floor tiles, tools, everything. It is concentrated enough to corrode any metal – including your chrome-plated sink accessories. Even vapours are highly corrosive: don’t forget the container open or it will turn any tool or metallic shelf nearby into rust.
For etching, I place the container on the floor (some scrap cardboard or newspaper to protect the floor from drops). I fit the board on the hanger, and submerge the PCB. Stir occasionally by waving the hanger.


First impression may be that nothing happens, but in less than 10 minutes some copper is removed, making first tracks to appear. From now on, stir continuously and check often, as the process completes rather quickly. You don’t want to overdo it, otherwise thinner tracks start being eroded sideways. As a rule of thumb, stop 30 seconds after you don’t see any copper leftovers over large areas.


Rinse the board with plenty, plenty, plenty of water
I store the etching solution in the same plastic box used for etching. When the job is done I just put the hermetic lid on. To further minimize risks of leakage, I put the container inside the bigger one I use for rinsing, put the second lid, and store it in a safe place.

Disclaimer: These are dangerous chemicals. Always read the labels that come with the solution, handle it wearing protective gloves and goggles, keep windows open, don’t inhale the fumes.

Finishing touches


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