Low-cost AVR programmer
For all AVR microcontrollers
For all AVR microcontrollers
(instead of an X-tal you can also take a resonator, this saves a bit space on the PCB)
7x 220 ohm
1x 100 ohm
1x 22pf
2x 27pf
1x 100n
1x 47uF/16V
1x IC- or textool-socket
1x X-tal 4 MHz
1x 25 sub-D connector
Before using this programmer....
Be carefull with using this programmer, because it has no insulation circuitry! Especially when using high voltages e.g. 110/230 Vac on your project. One mistake and your day can be ruied, your expensive PC
Be carefull with using this programmer, because it has no insulation circuitry! Especially when using high voltages e.g. 110/230 Vac on your project. One mistake and your day can be ruied, your expensive PC
In-circuit or as a target:
You can use this programmer for in-circuit programming, or as a target programmer, the first diagram shows the target version, the second the in-cicuit version. In-circuit is very usefull when your hardware finished project needs to be fine-tuned.
You can use this programmer for in-circuit programming, or as a target programmer, the first diagram shows the target version, the second the in-cicuit version. In-circuit is very usefull when your hardware finished project needs to be fine-tuned.
Software:
Here you can downloadSP12. With this FREE (GNU) software from Pitronics you can upload the program in the AVR's flash memory. (type: Intel hex)
With WAVRASM from Atmel you can assemble your ASM code to e.g. name_of_program.hex.
(all AVR definitions can be found here)
Here you can downloadSP12. With this FREE (GNU) software from Pitronics you can upload the program in the AVR's flash memory. (type: Intel hex)
With WAVRASM from Atmel you can assemble your ASM code to e.g. name_of_program.hex.
(all AVR definitions can be found here)
How to make one ?
Follow the steps to make the cheapest AVR programmer there is:
(Why spending a lot of money, your project won't operate different when using this low-cost solution)
(Why spending a lot of money, your project won't operate different when using this low-cost solution)
First solder the five 220 ohm resistors on the connector
Then the next 2 resistors like this
Strip the wires and solder them on the resistors and connector pins, write down what color what connection is, one mistake and it won't operate. (e.g. red = SCK = R on pin 2, etc.), or let the cover open and, connect the other side of the cable to a small PCB where the target uC will sit. (see next picture)
Fix the components on the PCB or hobby-board...
(20 pins IC-socket, ceramic resonator 4MHz, 10uF/16V)
All wiring connected, don't cut the rest of the wires, keep them as spare wires, if you ever need more connections or if have broken wires.
Here a homemade programmer, and it's working great :)
And not to forget, the wiring on the bottom
And not to forget, the wiring on the bottom
This is an extended version, now you can also program AT90S2323/2343/ATtiny's :)
Better to use these kind of IC sockets, after a year intensivly used I found out the cheap sockets are losing contact
Next, a low-cost programmer for the ATmega's
Next, a low-cost programmer for the ATmega's
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